Canal du Midi or Canal de Garonne by Bike: Which Should I Choose?

Le blog de Cycles Sud-Ouest

The Canal des Deux Mers by Bike

The “Canal des Deux Mers by Bike” is a stunning and accessible cycling route that links the Mediterranean to the Atlantic. It’s a well-developed 750 km path that offers variety and accessibility for all levels. Most cyclists divide it into two main segments:

  • The Bordeaux – Toulouse stretch, following the Canal Latéral à la Garonne (or simply, the Canal de Garonne).
  • The Toulouse – Sète stretch, which follows the Canal du Midi.

The signposted route does start a bit further up the coast in Royan, but this blog will concentrate on the route between Bordeaux and Sète.

Can’t decide between the two? Here’s an overview to help you pick the one that’s right for you!

Carte canal des deux mers à vélo, source : https://www.canaldes2mersavelo.com/

Presentation of the two sections

Photo du canal de Garonne avec deux cyclistes. Crédits : Teddy Verneuil/Lezbroz

Crédits : Teddy Verneuil/Lezbroz

The Canal de Garonne

 

Bordeaux – La Réole

The “Canal de Garonne” route covers about 270 km from Bordeaux to Toulouse. Starting from Bordeaux, you’ll initially ride along the Piste Roger Lapébie, a converted railway now a shaded, well-kept cycling path. It’s mostly flat, making it beginner-friendly, and winds through Bordeaux vineyards and charming villages like Créon.

The Piste Roger Lapébie ends in Sauveterre-de-Guyenne and you’ll then cycle about 20 km on smaller roads to reach the canal at La Réole. This part includes a few uphill sections and is shared with cars, but it’s short and doable. Allow yourself some extra time here to enjoy the scenery and tackle the hills without rushing.

La Réole – Toulouse

From La Réole to Toulouse, you’ll ride on the Canal de Garonne’s dedicated bike path. This flat, paved path is shaded by trees and makes for nice easy cycling, though it can be a bit bumpy due to tree roots in some places, so a hybrid or trekking bike is ideal. The Canal de Garonne promises relaxed days riding by the water and through picturesque towns and villages like Agen, known for its aqueduct, and Moissac, home to the UNESCO-listed Saint-Pierre Abbey.

The Canal de Garonne is an excellent choice for families and beginners, a peaceful ride with most of the route free of car traffic. Plus, the wide path can accommodate trailers for kids or pets.

Accommodation Tip: The canal’s surroundings are quite hilly, so check if your chosen accommodation involves a climb!

Photo du pont canal de Garonne. Crédits : Teddy Verneuil/Lezbroz

Crédits : Teddy Verneuil/Lezbroz

The Canal du Midi

You may have heard more about the Canal du Midi than the Canal de Garonne. Often, even locals mistakenly refer to the Canal de Garonne as the Canal du Midi! Running for 240 km from Toulouse to Sète, the Canal du Midi is a UNESCO World Heritage site with both pros and cons compared to the Canal de Garonne.

This picturesque route passes through towns like Castelnaudary (famous for its cassoulet), Le Somail, Béziers, and, of course, Carcassonne with its medieval citadel. The Canal du Midi is typically busier than the Canal de Garonne, giving it a lively and vibrant feel. However, much of the path here is unpaved, particularly after Carcassonne, which can make it muddy or dusty depending on the season. Trailers might find these stretches challenging, and a slower pace is recommended for safe riding.

Sadly, many of the iconic plane trees along the Canal du Midi have been cut down due to disease, reducing shade in some areas.

Comparing the two canal routes

Theme
Canal de Garonne
Canal du Midi
HistoryBuilt between 1838-1856 to extend the Canal du Midi in order to sail all the way to the Atlantic.Built between 1666 and 1681 under the direction of Pierre-Paul Riquet, the Canal du Midi was inaugurated in 1681 to avoid the long detour around the Strait of Gibraltar.
Route270 km from Bordeaux to Toulouse, with 53 locks along the way. (Bordeaux – Toulouse = 270 km the canal itself is 193km)Spanning 240 kilometers between Toulouse and Sète (Étang de Thau), it passes through 63 locks.
Highlights- Agen Canal Bridge : A 539m aqueduct crossing the Garonne river.
Agen’s aqueduct, the UNESCO-listed Saint-Pierre Abbey in Moissac, and the unique Montech water slope.

- Moissac : UNESCO listed Saint-Pierre Abbey.

- Montech : The unique Montech water slope allowing boats to climb 13.3m.
- The Malpas Tunnel: The world’s first navigable tunnel, located near Nissan-lez-Enserune.

- The Orb Aqueduct: A canal bridge over the Orb River.

- The City of Carcassonne: A medieval fortified town situated near the canal
Path SurfaceMostly modern and smooth, mainly tarmacked for easy, comfortable riding !

Shaded by plane trees nearly all the way along, very welcome in the summer heat!
The towpaths along the Canal du Midi have largely retained their original surface.

Traditionally unpaved, these paths can become muddy or dusty depending on the weather. Some deep ruts and narrow paths mean that careful attention must be paid to avoid accidents.

The canal is generally shaded by plane trees, though some sections are in full sun.
Family FriendlyGood for families and children of all ages, manageable with trailers (only the Sauveterre- La Réole section is on roads).The Canal du Midi’s irregular surface makes it harder to navigate with trailers
Recommended BikeHybrid or trekking bike, ideally with a front suspension.A hybrid or mountain bike with wider tires is recommended for added comfort.
SceneryVerdant landscapes, peaceful small villages, some larger towns.The route offers varied landscapes, with villages and vineyards, but some sections have less shade.
VibeQuieter and less crowded, ideal for those seeking a peaceful ride through real “authentic” France (not too touristy).The Canal du Midi attracts more tourists due to its fame and UNESCO World Heritage status, creating a more lively atmosphere, especially in summer, though this can sometimes mean higher traffic on certain parts of the route.

Conclusion

Overall, the Canal de Garonne is perfect if you’re after a relaxed ride, surrounded by greenery on smooth paths without crowds. Meanwhile, the Canal du Midi offers a more historic and varied experience but can be more challenging with busier sections and less consistent surfaces.

Cycles Sud-Ouest

Located halfway between Bordeaux and Toulouse along the Canal de Garonne, Cycles Sud-Ouest offers both electric and regular hybrid bike rentals that are perfect for exploring the Canal des Deux Mers. We can deliver bikes to Bordeaux and collect them in Toulouse, or further along the canal all the way to Sète. Our position half way along the Canal de Garonne means that we are never far away if you need us !

Got questions or need a quote? Don’t hesitate to reach out!

Don’t hesitate to contact us if you have any questions, or for a quote!

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